Day 9: Adventure & Sickness re-surfaces

Having “done” Lamayuru, we decide to go to Khardung La, which is the highest motorable road in the world. We hired the bike for an extra day, get the required in-line permits (yes, tourists need permits here and the hotel or the guest house you stay in will arrange for this quite easily. When you’re visiting Leh, please do carry an identity proof – passport (or at the least a driver’s license). The distance from Leh to Khardung La is 45 km. For at least 40 kms, the road is just fine. Beyond this, the landslides and water from glaciers have spoilt the road. Below is a video that was shot as we rode from Leh to Khardung La

Khardung La is at 18,000 odd feet above sea level and a little more than 6,000 feet above Leh. Acclimatization is very important. Visiting Khardung La on the second day of your stay at Leh is risky. Fourth day would be more like it.

We had started by 7 AM on the July morning and it was freezing cold. The rider had to use a glove to keep fingers from going numb. By the time we reached South Pullu (which is at an altitude of 15,000 odd ft) the whole body and the blood was demanding something hot inside. I have a strong feeling that the body parts (you know, heart, veins, this, that and something else) started becoming hard and the blood solidifying. I didn’t dare share this with Oneiro. He would’ve probably pushed me from one of the many opportunities that abound for such an act of great valor. And yes, there’s tea available in South Pullu and its good. We got tea mixed with our blood and things began to improve. Improve inside the body I mean, because, outside, the road began to get worse, and, heart just came to mouth! Simply. And things got better and I live to tell the tale, as always, so that’s a different thing altogether.

There’s a small canteen at Khardung La where you get maggi (instant noodles), coffee, tea and soft drinks. Now, if one has not given enough time for acclimatization at Leh, its an open invitation for mountain sickness. It just comes and never goes until you descend to a lower altitude.

It was here that the Vishnu duo first separated. Yes. He went ahead and I stayed back. I couldn’t put myself together to go further and I decided to spend my time at Khardung La. After watching the army men, the European tourists, the enthusiastic bikers and 90 minutes, the other Vishnu returned to find me in a bad shape. The anti-“throw-up” tablet did exactly the opposite. And it was here onwards that the other Vishnu rode the bike like a man possessed. Once we hit the tar road after the gravel, the 180 Pulsar never saw a speed below 60kmph. In those ghat-sections, this is a risk. A Border Roads Organization road sign read “Don’t Gossip, Let him drive” and I just shut my mouth until we reached the hotel room.

Shanti Stupa happened. We hadn’t seen the places Leh had to offer us. So, with the available time, we went to Shanti Stupa and it is nicely mounted on a hillock. The huge number of stairs leading to the Stupa got us think twice about climbing it. But, we needed exercise too, so, we did climb and the view from atop was indeed impressive. The huge open space was a revelation. It was getting dark and we started to descend. If you’re in Leh, do go to this place not after shopping, but before and carry zero or minimum stuff with you. There is a small restaurant up there which caters to your needs of tea and snacks. Give yourself at least three hours for this place.

It was the same night 0100hrs we had a bus to Manali.We grabbed a bite here and a drink there and shopped till we dropped, packed clothes, emptied bladders, settled bills and slept.
No, we did. The time was 2200hrs. We had time till 0000hrs. So, you know, in the manner of speaking, we did shut our eyes and went from one dreamland to another.