What I learnt from this trip

1. India is vast. Very. It broke the boundaries I had created in my mind.

2. Food is generally available in most of the cities in India with ease. There wasn't a single place we went out of food because of unavailability. (Food = Clean Food)

3. People are generally nice.

4. Indian Railways is one of the best things to have happened to India. The interconnectivity, the services offered (most of the stations have AC Rooms available and a clean canteen).

5. People would help you if you ask for directions or any other information

6. I now know how to take care of myself and where to look for what in a totally new place.

7. I'm all the more wanting to make such a trip again. (wanna join me? :P)

what you could expect in this blog? - unreleased videos, unreleased photos, conversations, missed out details. so, stay hooked!

Day 17: Bangalore Calls

We were so happy that the next destination was Bangalore! We surely were missing it. The filter coffee, work, friends, masala dosa, Kannada, boy! You just don’t know how much we were missing Bangalore towards the end of the trip.

Two young boys full of enthusiasm boarded the auto to the airport and gleefully awaited the boarding call.

So, India, there!

Day16: Filth eclipses Pleasantness

If someone had said all good things would come to an end on this day, I would’ve given a pat on the lad’s shoulder (kiss on the cheek, if it were to be lass) and said, I agree with you. You’ll know why at the end of this post.

Shillong bade us good bye, but not before making us spend more than hour in the ill-fated bus, with which problems began even before we got in. The driver’s 1000hrs was IST 1200hrs. Spits flew hither, thither and wither. (If you thought people spit everywhere only in Delhi, wait till you visit Meghalaya or Guwahati. Spitting is a birth right which you can exercise at any public place, in front of anyone, if you’re in Meghalaya or Guwahati. Don’t be surprised if someone spits right on your foot by mistake and wouldn’t apologize). A guy threw up and refused to clean. People in the bus were too slow even to react or abuse the guy who threw up and refused to clean. A lorry fell down in one of the ghat sections while overtaking, holding up traffic for more than 2 hours. This paragraph outlines how we spent 7 hours which was supposed to be 3 hours. But this only outlines. It was horrible.

And finally after what seemed an eternity, the familiar filthy bus stand Guwahati had to offer arrived. We simply got down and got in at the nearest decent looking hotel. Sixth floor room was the destination.

I think it was too pleasant at Shillong and the journey back as we couldn’t take the “not so pleasant” and the “not so clean” bus stand and surrounding places. We saw the spits and the unclean things around and carried that image into the hotel room. We decided not to come out of the room except for checking out and that’s precisely what we did.

It was the books that caught our attention until we let the books down and pulled the blankets up.

Day 15: Clouds Call

12. Cherrapunjee:

“Megha-alaya. A place so wonderful that even the moving homeless clouds found a home!”......... (Kavithai Mannan) Poet from Bangalore

“Wow”......... Consultant from Bangalore

“Too much”... Oneiro on Cherrapunjee

Morning woke me up to a dream that I was sleeping in a dungeon. Things tumbled back in my mind the moment I saw the water jug that was kept on the dust covered table. I had slept in a dungeon. We rushed to the tourist bus that was to leave to Cherrapunjee. We weren’t exactly overjoyed with the idea of traveling in a tourist bus, like tourists. I mean, we weren’t tourists! We were the people who traveled far and wide out on an adventure trip and didn’t want a guided tour, the locations and starting & ending times decided by the driver of the bus! But then, rarely, my dear friend! Rarely does the thing we want to happen, happens. So, we went. We had the pleasure of the cabin to us. Breath taking view added to the awesome-ness. (In case you’re asking if I thought about her, then, you won’t get an answer here. This is day 15. You ought to have known by now when I think about her and when I won’t. What?) Of the whole lot of places we visited, just like the tourists, we liked mawsynram caves the most. If you happen to visit Cherrapunjee, I urge you to visit one of the most beautiful natural rock formations that one can find in Cherrapunjee. It’s the best.

Lunch was maggi and more chocolate. It was here Sleepyface was faced with the profound question if chocolate and places like Koteshwar, Leh or Cherrapunjee made up the heaven that is promised religiously by all these religions of the world. If this ain’t heaven, then what is? (If you know, let me know in the comments)

Cherrapunjee lived up to its expectations Oneiro and Vishnu carried in the minds – the wettest place on earth. There was a constant drizzle. The fog and the clouds occupy spaces meant for clear air and make visibility less than 2 meters. It is with immense emotion that Sleepyface urges you, if at all he does, to visit Cherrapunjee at the earliest. It’s important that you understand the emotion and not just treat it as a bunch of English alphabets tied together to form words.

Dear reader, I urge you to visit Cherrapunjee at the earliest. (And, if I’m not asking too much, if you could, you know, putting it squarely, let me know the answer to the profound question of which heaven is and which is not)

And so with that note of being amidst clouds and getting wet in the constant drizzle, taking snaps and trying to stay away from the tourists, SF and O returned back to the dungeon and without a word, they start reading. SF starts Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance while O continues Atlas Shrugged into the night and later into sleep as well.

Day 14: Rain Comes

10. Guwahati:

“What if there’s a bomb right here, next to us?”…. SF to himself on Guwahati

“Filthy...” O on Guwahati

Guwahati! The city, slow but organized. People, nice. Weather, pleasant…SF on Guwahati

It had just stopped drizzling. The whole place was wet and the weather extremely pleasant. It is one of those rare cities where the bus stand is right next to the railway station. We didn’t want to waste any time and we rushed to the bus stand to catch the next available bus to Shillong.

It was here that mayhem of a different kind took place. The scheduled 3 hour journey took 7 hours, with 2 break downs, a puncture, fire in the bus and traffic jam.

As we entered Meghalaya, the view outside was like a dream. The greens, the constant drizzle, the clouds, it was in this setting that life found meaning. I had dairy milk chocolate in one of the most pleasant places on earth – Meghalaya. I probably couldn’t have asked for more.

11. Shillong:

“Hey, look at him spit!” SF to Oneiro

“Er…having an umbrella qualifies a citizenship in Shillong?” O on Shillong

It was sixish when we reached Shillong. We thought, like every other place that we’ve visited, it would be easy to get accommodation. We only thought so. The first place we enquired, we thought we selected a wrong place. Then the second, the third, seventh! All hotels were full and no rooms and were priced exorbitant amounts. It made no sense. It was more expensive than Bangalore. We settled on a place which looked worse than the one in Pahargunj. It was straight out from the ones shown in the bollywood movies showcasing underworld brutalities.

We got out, had a light meal, booked tickets for a one day organized tour to Cherrapunjee for the next day at Meghalaya Tourism, and got back to the dungeon. The hotel guy gave us a thick blanket which the minute one puts it over him/her either because of the tiredness or because of the stench in the blanket, sleep just comes. (However, I argued with Oneiro that I fainted)

Day 13: 2 Tier AC

All day in the train, we continued to read the book. Oneiro at Side Upper and me side lower. We didn’t speak a word. Evening saw Oneiro read quite a good chunk of Atlas Shrugged and me completing Ken Follett’s Code to Zero. The highlight of the day was the Patna Railway Station – the head quarters of the minister of Indian Railways

Day 12: On Our Own

On completing the eventful journey, which will remain in the memory for a long time, we saw ourselves at the outskirts of Delhi. Mobbed by auto drivers and driven by indecision, we checked in at the worst hotel I’ve ever stayed in, in Pahargunj. It was a place that could’ve attracted a raid by the police any hour, for all the wrong reasons that you can think of. Yes, all the reasons you can think of. (what?) The corridors were stinking. The room was stinking. Ugh… I not just refuse to but I can’t describe more about it.

We got out of the place as early as possible. Enquiring around we learnt CP was close by. Walked until CP, brunch at Saravana Bhavan again, Shuttled between PVR Rivoli and the PVR Plaza @ CP to find out if we could squeeze in 3 shows that day. Sadly, we managed only two (Partner & Mithya) but hey, we also managed to buy used books and meet the cast of Mithya, gobbled up a snack at the Mc Donald’s, before which, we sat at the CP park and read a bit of the used book that we bought.

Tip: The old man selling used books at CP, near PVR Rivoli rarely reduces price but has a good knowledge of the books.

Day 11: Reality Calls

We booked tickets for the bus leaving Manali at 3pm and reaching New Delhi at 7 am the next day. There is no choice. You have to leave Manali by 3 if you wish to see New Delhi the next morning.

The train to Guwahati was at 2359 hrs from New Delhi. So we had some time which we didn’t want to while away in New Delhi. After intense discussion, some shopping, a visit to a Gompa in Manali, lunch at madras café, we decided to while away our time in New Delhi. But we decided to do a movie marathon. Morning to night, we wanted to watch movies. We wanted all hell to break loose. But rarely, dear reader, rarely things turned the way we wanted it to turn. I’m sorry to disappoint you, hell did not break loose.

The bus to Delhi left precisely an hour late, but not before the usual drama of leaving the passengers clueless on the time of actual departure.

The bus is something to speak about. It has a sleeper coach above the seats, where in two people can sleep. Designed for the honeymooners, in all possibility. And so, this Indian lady “upgraded” her seat to a sleeper and later found that she had to share the travel with a firang-guy. It was here, that our dream of hell breaking loose took place. All hell broke loose. Drama unfolded like we’ve never before watched. Oneiro and I were enjoying every minute. Abuses flew, Bus Conductor came running, the other firangs confused, while some holy gentlemen decided to smoke. And, all the drama that was quoted, took place before the bus left.

What could’ve been sorted by a simple request was blown out of proportion and we witnessed the demonstration of mayhem, end to end.

Amidst this drama, the honeymooner guy with a potbelly (easily 40” waist) got down from his sleeper coach in his inner wear, with his vest reading “I look like John Abraham”. So, there, dear readers surfaced the evidence of comedy in the proceedings.

Day 10: Pleasantness continues to descend

9. Manali

“Look at the commercialization maan!” – SF on Manali, upon arrival

“You know what Vishnu, I think Manali is the closest to the Himalayas, the “not so fit” people can reach” – O on Manali

It must be close to 7 when we reached Manali. The place, I tell you, is totally in contrast with Leh. Commercialization has spoilt the beauty of Manali. It’s a honeymooners’ paradise. We did see quite a lot of couples cuddling and walking with hands around the other’s waist and stuff like that.

We had a train to catch from Delhi the next day.

The 19 hour bus journey had spoilt any enthusiasm that was left in us. We hardly spoke. The waiter at “madras café” in Manali stood by our side for 15 minutes waiting for us to order. That was the scenario. We found ourselves seconds away from drifting to sleep when Oneiro asked me to pass the water bottle. I turned and turned back with the bottle and he was fast asleep.

Day 10: Pleasantness Descends

We left for the bus stand at 0000hrs. I think you should write this down somewhere. There are absolutely no streetlights at Leh. Pitch dark. You never know which pot hole is waiting to gobble up your foot or which dog’s tail is going to be the bait. Having undertaken the journey far and wide, we went all the way wherever destiny took us. Our internal sense of direction worked quite well and we reached the bus stand. A couple of firangs were waiting for the bus too. And we later found out in the 12 seat maxi-cab, apart from the driver, 8 of them were firangs.

The view along the Leh to Manali route is like a very nicely edited movie, which has won the award for cinematography. If you find this analogy horrible, then it only means that there is no other parallel that I can think of to explain you with words. I’ll try and post pictures.

One of the noteworthy events on this journey was that, I could satisfy my life long desire of having chocolate tea. This happened at this place called Darcha, which is a stopover for bikers and other travelers in need of a good meal. No longer did I see chocolate tea on the menu card, the feeling of being overjoyed engulfed. My first ever!

We seemed to travel uphill, downhill, between planes (the geometric planes), over the wooden bridges, on the gravel, in the flowing water, boy. Don’t even begin to ask. It was so pleasing that we didn’t take any photos. Coz, if we had indeed taken, we had to take every single frame of the travel. We decided not to click any snap.

Road to Khardung La

A 1 min video of the road to khardung la. At these conditions, to shoot a one minute video itself was a challenge.

Day 9: Adventure & Sickness re-surfaces

Having “done” Lamayuru, we decide to go to Khardung La, which is the highest motorable road in the world. We hired the bike for an extra day, get the required in-line permits (yes, tourists need permits here and the hotel or the guest house you stay in will arrange for this quite easily. When you’re visiting Leh, please do carry an identity proof – passport (or at the least a driver’s license). The distance from Leh to Khardung La is 45 km. For at least 40 kms, the road is just fine. Beyond this, the landslides and water from glaciers have spoilt the road. Below is a video that was shot as we rode from Leh to Khardung La

Khardung La is at 18,000 odd feet above sea level and a little more than 6,000 feet above Leh. Acclimatization is very important. Visiting Khardung La on the second day of your stay at Leh is risky. Fourth day would be more like it.

We had started by 7 AM on the July morning and it was freezing cold. The rider had to use a glove to keep fingers from going numb. By the time we reached South Pullu (which is at an altitude of 15,000 odd ft) the whole body and the blood was demanding something hot inside. I have a strong feeling that the body parts (you know, heart, veins, this, that and something else) started becoming hard and the blood solidifying. I didn’t dare share this with Oneiro. He would’ve probably pushed me from one of the many opportunities that abound for such an act of great valor. And yes, there’s tea available in South Pullu and its good. We got tea mixed with our blood and things began to improve. Improve inside the body I mean, because, outside, the road began to get worse, and, heart just came to mouth! Simply. And things got better and I live to tell the tale, as always, so that’s a different thing altogether.

There’s a small canteen at Khardung La where you get maggi (instant noodles), coffee, tea and soft drinks. Now, if one has not given enough time for acclimatization at Leh, its an open invitation for mountain sickness. It just comes and never goes until you descend to a lower altitude.

It was here that the Vishnu duo first separated. Yes. He went ahead and I stayed back. I couldn’t put myself together to go further and I decided to spend my time at Khardung La. After watching the army men, the European tourists, the enthusiastic bikers and 90 minutes, the other Vishnu returned to find me in a bad shape. The anti-“throw-up” tablet did exactly the opposite. And it was here onwards that the other Vishnu rode the bike like a man possessed. Once we hit the tar road after the gravel, the 180 Pulsar never saw a speed below 60kmph. In those ghat-sections, this is a risk. A Border Roads Organization road sign read “Don’t Gossip, Let him drive” and I just shut my mouth until we reached the hotel room.

Shanti Stupa happened. We hadn’t seen the places Leh had to offer us. So, with the available time, we went to Shanti Stupa and it is nicely mounted on a hillock. The huge number of stairs leading to the Stupa got us think twice about climbing it. But, we needed exercise too, so, we did climb and the view from atop was indeed impressive. The huge open space was a revelation. It was getting dark and we started to descend. If you’re in Leh, do go to this place not after shopping, but before and carry zero or minimum stuff with you. There is a small restaurant up there which caters to your needs of tea and snacks. Give yourself at least three hours for this place.

It was the same night 0100hrs we had a bus to Manali.We grabbed a bite here and a drink there and shopped till we dropped, packed clothes, emptied bladders, settled bills and slept.
No, we did. The time was 2200hrs. We had time till 0000hrs. So, you know, in the manner of speaking, we did shut our eyes and went from one dreamland to another.

3 minutes of travel from Lamayuru to Leh

Leh to Lamayuru Snapshots

1. Flower and Bike, 2. Leh to Lamayuru, 3. Patches of Green, 4. Postcard, 5. Leh to Lamayuru, 6. Waiting to be used, 7. Zanskar Range, 8. Indus River, 9. Indus, 10. Movie Poster, 11. One, 12. Tough Roads, 13. View from Lamayuru, 14. Ladakhi Flowers, 15. One (Part 2), 16. Zanskar River, 17. The road with the small stones, 18. Break, 19. Road amdist Peaks, 20. Dead End?, 21. River Zanskar, 22. Lamayuru 152, 23. Patches of Green, 24. Postcard, 25. Leh to Lamayuru

Day 8: Adventure Occurs

We start quite early. Fill petrol. The journey to Lamayuru, one of the oldest monasteries was filled with beauty. The great Zanskar and Himalayan ranges, Indus & Zanskar Rivers, smaller towns – Nimmu and the like, breakfast, breaks which were taken to admire the view, a sigh here and an exclamation there, the army convoys, boy! It sure was a miracle in motion.

As ‘they’ say, the journey became more important and enjoyable than the destination, when the doors to the temple were shut by the time we reached Lamayuru.

It was during this point that I decided to visit Leh more often in the future. The bike rides along these places are the best. You find road sometimes. Sometimes there’s no road, but just gravel and to ride your bike in these roads, well, it is something else. And the rain! It hits you like needles. It was one heck of an experience riding in the rain.

It is here that I would like the pictures to speak more than me. Words are not enough and wouldn’t justify the beauty of the place. Believe me.

Day 7: Sickness Calls

8. Leh

“Heh, Bangalore is colder than Leh!” – O and SF on Leh, upon arrival

“Me in Leh, beautiful view” – Murderer

Leh. It’s something else. Words fail. But there’ll be an attempt.

As I think more about Leh, it ceases to be a geographical location in my mind. It has become more of a feeling or a state of mind (Stop grinning!). There’s a connection with this place that gets bonded the minute you arrive. The people of Ladakh are so friendly and trustworthy that, you know, 26 years and all that, nope, not in a single place of India have I seen nicer people. When you check out of the hotel that you stay, the hotel staff feels bad as if their family member is going away. Touching, moving and all “those” emotions come flowing.

For getting acclimatized to the height, we were given to understand, one were to sleep. Not for one hour or two, but at least 3 to 4. We being we slept not for 3 or 4, but about 10, with a lunch break in between. The weariness accumulated on all these days started showing up. We slept the whole day and went out only for dinner.

After visiting a monastery (Gompa) in Fort road, we headed to the terrace restaurant. A new form of energy kicked in and just like that, we hired a pulsar 180 and decided to go to Lamayuru the next day. Nazir helped us set everything up.

Nazir. We met him as soon as we landed in Leh and he made our lives so easy that we depended on him for everything. The next time you’re going to Leh, and if you would like to arrange stuff there before you go, just contact Nazir. He’ll take care of the arrangement part.

That was day 7, folks. Sickness called us.

Day 6: Magic Happens

7. New Delhi

“Delhi Sucks man!” O on New Delhi

“Whatay city, Whatay city, Life after ten, is a pity” Consultant from Bangalore on New Delhi

“I would kill you. Delhi is a nice place!” Mathemagician from New Delhi, on the above quote

Delhi comes by around noon. From here the magic begins. The magic of metro rail, which we use to travel to Karol bhag, where we were going to stay, the place of stay, which came as a total surprise, from Chirag, who is Oneiro’s friend. And the magic of metro rail again, which we take to go to CP, hoping to catch a movie. The magic of South Indian food by none other than Saravana Bhavan, and, the magician extraordinaire, Harry Potter himself! It was all magic until, we realized, we had to struggle to find a means of transport back to Karol Bhag. It was only ten in the night. But then, we were in New Delhi

Day 5: Irritation Kicks In

0400hrs in the morning, we left Yatri Nivas with a heavy heart. The bus left almost immediately and the four and half hour journey which demanded us to sit in only one position had us quite irked.

The familiar Bhuj bus stand had nothing to welcome us, the horrifying stares continued. We ignored such acts of the devil and moved to the same place where we had the tasty pooris. Intake of oil is so essential while on trips like these, especially far and wide, you see. And we decide to get fit by walking with our back packs from the bus stand to the railway station, in the hot and tearing sun. Tearing not just the clouds, but we felt like tearing our clothes too, it was that hot. We sit by a mechanic shop hoping a miracle, but, where does miracle happen nowadays?, nothing happened. So we started to walk again. And, Bhuj seems to be recovering from the quake in 2001. The buildings look new and the cracks are fewer, if not non-existent. The city buildings seemed to mock at us. Us – weary, sweaty travelers, about to complete the far part of the travel and take the wide part. The sun mocked at us. And finally, the only whole and soul, our skin mocked at us, making us sweaty like never before.

The long and a little frustrating walk comes to an end with the IAF jets flying at the railway station. No, separate it out. Jets’ flying above was the event. Railway station was the location. Our tickets said S3. I see S1, S2 and after which is S4! There’s no S3. The ticket checker is quite casual about it and I thought he was going to say “yahin thoda bahar gaya hua hogaa”. Believe me, in Bhuj, at the circumstances we were in, this was a possibility.

With things settled, a big fat Gujarati family move into our compartment. 12 seconds upon their arrival, the whole place resembles a food plate. They start munching every damn thing; the Behn-ji tho, had brought the whole kitchen. We had little option but to shake our heads.

Flies. I was controlling myself from talking about this. Bhuj is the “fly” capital of India. Especially the Bhuj – New Delhi train. In my 26 years of upbringing in a clean environment, I haven’t seen such a magnanimous number of flies per square meter. We sprayed Set Wet Zatak’s deodorant hoping that would make them go away, but the relief was only temporary. All we did was to turn away, feeling more irritated.

It may be worth mentioning a village the train passed by which was echoing our feelings. Not the villagers, but the village name itself. We were seeking an escape from the irritation endured over the whole day. The village was called Bachau.

Photos from Koteshwar

clockwise from the largest picture - breathtakingness, koteshwar, the road, the house

Day 4: Cleanliness goes (but comes back by evening)

6. Bhuj

The image I saw in the morning of Day 4 was quite disturbing. Filth greeted the early morning eye, right at the entrance of the door in the train. The autowallahs mobbed us, as if we were film stars. After assuring that we only looked like them, they treated us as customers.

The bus stand at Bhuj is a paradox, besides being unclean. It should’ve been called “people stand”. At least 40% of the population of Bhuj just stand there. That’s the whole point, they just stand! How many ever buses come and go, they don’t board the bus. And the buses! They’re parked as if they’re in kindergarten. Here, there and everywhere. This way, that way and which way not. The horrifying stares we got while we were standing there suggested they were planning to con us. If ever in your life time you happen to visit Bhuj, keep this in mind. There wouldn’t be any English news paper available. (But we weren’t there to read newspapers okay)

We wandered around for breakfast and had oil dripping, but very tasty, pooris along with a super milky tea.

5 minutes into the bus journey to Koteshwar, Oneiro and I felt as if we were in a bus in Pakistan. Whatay people. Whatay journey. Un-ignorable stench. To add to that, rain. Boy. Four hours and thirty minutes spent in sitting in the same position, in such a pleasing ambience and sweet sweat.

We reach Narayan Sarovar. And just like that, we reach Koteshwar which is 2km away. It was love at first sight. No, not the women, silly, I’m talking about the beauty of rann (seabed / desert), the beauty of water, the beauty of the rann bisected by the tar road, the beauty of flamingos, the beauty of the view and so on (and so forth)

But wait! There’s no food available in Koteshwar. So we rush back to Narayan Sarovar hoping “some” food will be available. But no! What did we know! In Narayan Sarovar, there’s this Ashram, which serves food for free! Boy O Boy! We were moved by the generosity. It is at this point things began to get pleasant. The cleanliness which went away in the morning started to come back, at least in our minds.

We found a nice looking building and later discovered that it’s a Gujarat Tourism Yatri Nivas, for weary travelers like us. In my 26 years of “yatri nivas” visiting experience, I’ve never had the whole “yatri nivas” for just the team I’m traveling with! Clean, pleasant, and with Koteshwar so near! We thought we were dreaming.

We were woken up by the Indian Army officials who questioned our presence there, not just our presence especially with the cameras. As things always turned in, we got “friends” with them.

We decided to stay at the resort only after we learnt that there’s an early morning 4 am bus to Bhuj, which, if we had missed, would’ve upset the whole travel plan.

The evening was the most relaxing evenings we ever had in the whole trip. This comes in as the “unforgettable” moment. Especially the walk on the road connecting yatri nivas and Koteshwar has been etched into the mind. The walk witnessed Sleepyface singing all romantic kishore kumar numbers to himself, apparently thinking of her. Such becomes a travel, so far and so wide, that it leaves images………… so strong that………. Er……. Well…………, I have no words….

The sunset too, we just sat there, listening to the wind and water, watching the sun set, peace unfurled itself in our minds.